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GHANA | Visit Ghana with TransAfrica |
Ghana
is situated between Cote d’Ivoire and Benin on the Gulf of Guinea.
The land covers an area of approximately 238,000 square kilometres, stretching
from the low, sandy coast fringed with palm trees, with small lagoons
scattered in between, to the grassy plains of the interior that spread
out towards the east. In the west the land is covered in thriving rainforest
vegetation. Towards the north there is a range of green hills, beyond
which the savannah opens up; little by little this gives way to the arid
Sahel region up towards the border with Burkina Faso. In the east the
Akuapim hills run northwards from the coast along the Togolese border.
The Volta Rivers – the Black Volta and the White Volta – flow
into Ghana from Burkina in the north and they form the largest artificial
lake in the world, Lake Volta.
From Colony to Independence
The rich history of Ghana is strongly linked to the grandeur of the Ashanti Kingdom (which to some extent still exerts some influence today) which rose to power at the end of the 17th century, prospered and became very powerful thanks to the slave trade; it continued to hold sway throughout the whole of the 18th century right up to the beginning of the 19th century. During this period, the Ashanti capital Kumasi was one of the most refined and developed cities in the whole of Africa: a good number of Europeans lived there, acting in the roles of advisors or administrators. The presence of Europeans in Ghana goes back to the middle of the 15th century when the first Portuguese arrived - today the numerous forts along the coast, which were used as warehouses for gold, ivory and slaves, are still standing as testament to the erstwhile Portuguese presence in the region. Ghana, at that time known as the ‘Gold Coast’, was only considered British territory from the end of the 19th century, after the defeat of the last Ashanti resistance. If Ghana was somewhat late in becoming a unified colonial state under European control it was, conversely, the first African nation to gain its independence (1957). The country became a republic in 1960.
The Animist Peoples
It is difficult to explain about the different peoples of Ghana without first going into a brief history of the entire Ghana region. The Ghana of the past is today occupied not only by the Ghana of the present day, but also by Togo and Benin. The borders that exist today are a legacy of the colonial period and were marked out according to political interests; in several instances, these borders divided ethnic groups arbitrarily and peoples of the same ethnic background now live in different countries as a result.
The southern peoples, who have been influenced by Europe for the last 500 years, constitute the majority of the population and they live mostly in rural areas. In the north however it is quite a different story – the north was (and still is) inhabited by several isolated animist peoples of different ethnic origin, who migrated into the rocky, inhospitable territories to escape from all manner of enemies. This isolationism (due to their need to protect themselves - principally from the slave traders) sparked the development of unique forms of architecture, kept the infiltration of western customs to a minimum, and promoted the survival of their own ancient traditions. This region is one of the most interesting and captivating, not only in West Africa, but on the whole continent.
The Lobi people inhabit an area situated between Ghana, Burkina Faso and Cote d’Ivoire. They were once warrior tribes and they have retained a deep sense of pride and independence over the years. Recently, they have abandoned hunting and fishing in favour of agriculture. They live in ‘suhala’, little clay fortresses with narrow entranceways carved with the symbols of their animist beliefs that you can see everywhere in this area. For the Lobi, the head of the family is the supreme authority: he is responsible for everything, including the upkeep of the altars and the statuettes dedicated to the religion of their ancestors. The Lobi are excellent artists and make beautiful wooden statues in elongated forms as well as metal figurines.
The Gurunsi/Kassena are a people famous throughout the world for the beauty of their mural decorations, which adorn their harmoniously round clay huts. It is the women of this tribe who are responsible for painting the frescoes on the walls.
The Talensi inhabit a mysterious plateau, pricked here and there by pinnacles arranged with quite an incredible degree of order. The people consider this place to be the ancient residence of the gods. Inside a narrow cave that can be found perching on the side of the highest hill, is a sacred altar to which numerous pilgrims come, accompanied by a priest well-versed in the rites and ways of their religion. The Talensi also live in fortified clay homes that can house up to 60 people. Viewed from above, these houses are really a labyrinth of narrow passageways which together create a rather beautiful whole.
The Ashanti Kingdom
Kumasi and the surrounding area makes up the territory of the Ashanti Kingdom, one of the most powerful African nations right up until the 19th century. The social organisation of the Ashanti people was centred around the figure Ashantehene, the king. The Ashanti were the lords of the gold trade and even today gold plays an important part in their official ceremonies. They are also expert artisans and their gold jewellery is well renowned throughout the whole of West Africa.
An unforgettable experience in Kumasi is attending a typical funeral ceremony, where members of the family and the close friends of the deceased dress in the traditional way – wrapped in swathes of red or black cloth worn like a toga. The Festival of Akwasidae is also quite stunning – this is a festival which celebrates the beginning of the month according to the traditional calendar.
The western region of Ghana, as well as the central regions of Togo and Benin, is inhabited by the Ewe people, whose economy is mostly based on agriculture and fishing. The Ewe arrived here with a party of immigrants coming from the nearby Yoruba territories in Nigeria and their traditional religions followed them. Their voodoo religion, which was exported overseas during the years of the slave trade, is the origin of the similar religious beliefs that are practised in Brazil and in the Caribbean.
The Portuguese Forts
In Ghana you can still see the ancient castles and forts which were often used during the slave trade period as warehouses for slaves and other merchandise. The castle at Cape Coast, built in the 16th century and subsequently restored and extended, was the seat of the British administration of the Gold Coast up until 1877, after which it moved to Christianborg Castle in Accra.
A little further to the west is Elmina Castle (El Mina – ‘the mine’), which was where the first Portuguese established themsleves in Ghana. The castle dates from the second half of the 15th century. A well-executed restoration has transformed it into a museum that bears witness to the horrors of slavery. The region is inhabited by the Fanti people who descend from the same ancestors as the Ashanti – the ethnic group of the Akan.
